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Chrispy
15-03-2009, 09:53 AM
Well people where complaining about the length of the last thread as it doesn't work well with stupid retarded forum reading mode.... :rolleyes:

Click here for the first thread (http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276379)


Not too much to show at the moment.

Pulled the motor and gearbox out again.

http://my.photodump.com/uploads/Chrispy300/c4291a619412d65e.JPG?dcded025e07fdaef.JPG

Also put on my 2K lights :cool: Now I've had them in my hot little hands and compared them to standard lights they are soooo much nicer.

The obligatory before and after. All that junk in the background is my future brother in law's skyline crap :p

http://my.photodump.com/uploads/Chrispy300/dcded025e07fdaef.JPG?d71a4276c568461b.JPG

http://my.photodump.com/uploads/Chrispy300/f4a0698b379aa052.JPG?dcded025e07fdaef.JPG


Also got myself a new toy :D Makita metal cutoff saw, will make doing the extractors much easier and safer than just using the 4" to cut everything.

http://my.photodump.com/uploads/Chrispy300/d71a4276c568461b.JPG?dcded025e07fdaef.JPG

I've started making the mounts too, more info once I know they will work :p

Chrispy
15-03-2009, 12:07 PM
Bit of motivation for me more than anything, but you guys will probably like it :p

Steve's drag S14 with a VH45. He just put in some 272deg cams with very mildly ported heads.

Sounds beastie!

Clicky! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4De3WVFV_X4)

Z-Force
15-03-2009, 12:17 PM
The lights look soooooo much better! They look really sexy on a red zed. :)

Good luck with the project. Will definitely be interesting and very unique.

Cheers
Rob.

Spinzzx
15-03-2009, 08:30 PM
100% better ;). Glad your happy with them and they arrived safely. Keep up the good work :thumbup:

Cheers Fran :)

Steven
19-03-2009, 10:46 AM
Chrisp, not sure if you will be having a hole in your bonnet.
How about this for a cover.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/6/9/3/9/3/webimg/231111640_tp.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AVS-Auto-Ventshade-992001-Sport-Compact-Cowl-Hood-Scoop_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a1Q 7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem180329849521QQitemZ180329849521QQptZMotors Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

LOWZX
19-03-2009, 10:48 AM
Chrisp, not sure if you will be having a hole in your bonnet.
How about this for a cover.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/6/9/3/9/3/webimg/231111640_tp.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AVS-Auto-Ventshade-992001-Sport-Compact-Cowl-Hood-Scoop_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a1Q 7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem180329849521QQitemZ180329849521QQptZMotors Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

be sure to get SLR5000 stickers made up chris :eek::)

ztoy
19-03-2009, 05:14 PM
I think I found your muse Chris.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksRhjw3uFqE&feature=related

Chrispy
19-03-2009, 06:40 PM
Chrisp, not sure if you will be having a hole in your bonnet.
How about this for a cover.


To comply with the code of practise it has to be made from the same material as the bonnet if any part of the intake maifold sticks through.

I think I found your muse Chris.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksRhjw3uFqE&feature=related

Yeah, that's Steve's. Knocked it up in his spare time when not working on the V8 S14 drag car :eek:

Chrispy
04-05-2009, 11:15 AM
Well a busy weekend! I put the spigot bush in! :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/spigotin.JPG

Had to machine it down to 20mm (+2 thou, -0). Standard Zed bronze one to start with.

Also knocked up a quick workbench on saturday arvo :D

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/newbench.JPG

And here are some details on the 4 point rear roll cage. Looks like nearlly all the trim bits will fit back on too! Just need to trim those little clip in bits on top behind the seats.

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/rollcageback.JPG

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/rollcagefromfront.JPG

Rear Mount
http://www.photodump.org/stored27/rollcagerearmount.JPG

Floor Mount, also bolts through lower seatbelt mount.
http://www.photodump.org/stored27/rollcagefloormount.JPG

Pillar mount, through the upper seatbelt mount.
http://www.photodump.org/stored27/rollcagepillarmount.JPG

Sanouske
04-05-2009, 01:45 PM
all looking very nice, i was wondering what was happening with this. keen to see the results.

also that vid, very nice.

rollin
04-05-2009, 02:35 PM
lookin good chris, i know how long these jobs take.....

Btw, you still got a Amp mounted in there???

j0no
04-05-2009, 02:47 PM
lookin good chris, i know how long these jobs take.....

Btw, you still got a Amp mounted in there???

I was just about to say the same thing. Nice capacitor you got there chris.... for sale? haha

WazTTed
04-05-2009, 02:56 PM
I was just about to say the same thing. Nice capacitor you got there chris.... for sale? haha

nice work bro!! where is the FLUX CAPACITOR ???

Martin
04-05-2009, 06:21 PM
nice cage, i'm a fan :cool:

Chrispy
04-05-2009, 08:55 PM
Btw, you still got a Amp mounted in there???

Haha, yep, and the sub is going back in :p It all clears fine :D

I was just about to say the same thing. Nice capacitor you got there chris.... for sale? haha

Nah, that's the bracket for the fire extinguisher.

Chrispy
07-05-2009, 07:58 PM
Oh! Aren't I lucky!

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/2krecaro.JPG

A set of OEM optional 2K spec Recaro's! Hehehe! Fantastic condition, really comfy too! Love 'em!

Anton
07-05-2009, 09:02 PM
they are very similar to mine, except mine are all black leather

ed300zx
08-05-2009, 06:34 AM
**** they look good mate...get them installed so we can see them int he car

Oh! Aren't I lucky!

http://www.photodump.org/stored27/2krecaro.JPG

A set of OEM optional 2K spec Recaro's! Hehehe! Fantastic condition, really comfy too! Love 'em!

mantastic001
08-05-2009, 09:56 AM
Where did you pick these bad boys up? I was thinking leather re-trim, but now I'm leaning towards recaros :D

Chrispy
08-05-2009, 10:37 AM
Got them off Erik (ed300zx), he brought them in from Japan. About $1900 though :eek:

ed300zx
08-05-2009, 10:50 AM
Where did you pick these bad boys up? I was thinking leather re-trim, but now I'm leaning towards recaros :D

i was going to throw them into the vert

Chrispy
16-05-2009, 12:16 PM
Hehe! Work Rezax Roars! From what I can tell off the net they are forged magnesium :eek:

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/workroar1.JPG

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/workroar2.JPG

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/workroar3.JPG

Gonna go get me some 285 semi's!

MAX
16-05-2009, 12:57 PM
With that much rubber you should be named "sticky 2".

Martin
16-05-2009, 03:18 PM
does this mean i can have my old tires back :D??

Chrispy
16-05-2009, 04:08 PM
Nah, these are the track wheels :p

black baz
16-05-2009, 07:36 PM
... offset 45 ...???? ... need for spacers ..????

Anton
16-05-2009, 10:46 PM
... offset 45 ...???? ... need for spacers ..????

not with 10" wide wheels

meanwhile i dropped my vh45 on my hand today and severed all kinds of important shit in my hand, surgery tomorrow with 6 weeks off :(. I was hoping to start making some solid progress on the beast, even picked up a second T3 turbo :bash: pretty sure you should win the race

directzx
16-05-2009, 11:03 PM
far out... dont worry about the zed man, just make sure you can keep using your hand.

good luck with surgery, have you got a progress thread for your beast?

kbro3
17-05-2009, 12:16 AM
not with 10" wide wheels

meanwhile i dropped my vh45 on my hand today and severed all kinds of important shit in my hand, surgery tomorrow with 6 weeks off :(. I was hoping to start making some solid progress on the beast, even picked up a second T3 turbo :bash: pretty sure you should win the race

Shit, hope you have a speedy recovery.

-Kirill

rollin
17-05-2009, 07:16 AM
get the thing finished before you go buying anything else Chris :p

Chrispy
17-05-2009, 09:08 AM
not with 10" wide wheels

meanwhile i dropped my vh45 on my hand today and severed all kinds of important shit in my hand, surgery tomorrow with 6 weeks off :(. I was hoping to start making some solid progress on the beast, even picked up a second T3 turbo :bash: pretty sure you should win the race

Will need spacers for the front, they hit the calipers...

Wow, that sucks man :eek: You should be careful with large heavy things... How did you do it?

On the turbo note, looks like my truck turbo will fit fine if I relocate the alternator to between the V like on a VH41 :cool:

Rollin, yes, lots more to be done very soon! I've quit my job to return to uni full time, so I'll have my weekends back at the very least.

Anton
18-05-2009, 06:38 PM
Will need spacers for the front, they hit the calipers...

Wow, that sucks man :eek: You should be careful with large heavy things... How did you do it?

On the turbo note, looks like my truck turbo will fit fine if I relocate the alternator to between the V like on a VH41 :cool:

Rollin, yes, lots more to be done very soon! I've quit my job to return to uni full time, so I'll have my weekends back at the very least.

the person helping me move the engine didn't realise the stand locks by using the weight of the engine, they pulled it the wrong way and the stand collapsed, I tried to catch the entire motor with one hand, turns ut I'm not that buff.

I also quit my job a few weeks ago to go back to full time study, this is getting a bit spooky :p

I saw your post on nico about the top mount alt, I'll let you know what I make because I asked dad (a fabricator) to make a bracket to sit it up there but he hasn't had the time.

Chrispy
18-05-2009, 07:44 PM
Wow :eek: Dodgy sounding stand! Is the motor OK?

Spooky is right, maybe we are long lost twins :p

Let me know about the alt bracket. And I promise I will make cad drawings for the mounts when I make them.

black baz
18-05-2009, 09:01 PM
big decision on the job/uni, chrispy ....

good luck with full time study .. hope it moves your degree to quick completion ...

thank the lord that jayme has only one semester to go ...

Anton
19-05-2009, 01:09 AM
Wow :eek: Dodgy sounding stand! Is the motor OK?

Spooky is right, maybe we are long lost twins :p

Let me know about the alt bracket. And I promise I will make cad drawings for the mounts when I make them.

motor looks ok, not sure what I'll do if the motors damaged, probably part out the whole project :(

I'm 90% sure I'll be going with solid mounts

Chrispy
30-05-2009, 09:33 PM
Got the mounts done! Whoohoo!

Pictures up later, the internet on my 'puter is playing up...

The mounts are going to be very harsh, only just enough flexibleness to get it through rego. Should be great :D

I think I'll redo them, not really that impressed with my rubbish welding, and they deformed a bit with the heat as I laid it on a bit heavy :p Ah well, plenty of spare time coming up...

Anton
04-06-2009, 05:45 PM
did you CAD them? I didn't look into legalities of solid mounts, you saying they are illegal?

pics, pics, pics

Chrispy
04-06-2009, 07:35 PM
Sorry, my computer isn't talking to the internet at the moment, once it's working again I will get the piccies up.

In the code of practise it says you have to have some 'method of vibration isolation'.

John Dixon is using solid mounts and loves them.

No I didn't CAD them, just made a few bits up at a guess then measured the last bit in situation.

Anton
05-06-2009, 01:51 AM
guess I'll wait for pics, mainly wondering about the offset of the mounts

Chrispy
05-06-2009, 05:12 PM
Ok, piccy time! Yay!

First up, my new toy :cool: 1hp drill press, takes drills with up to a 16mm shank :D I love it, makes drilling steel soooo much easier and safer. I'm not man enough to hold a big drill while trying to drill through 8mm plate with a 1/2" drill :eek: Hurt my little girly wrists...

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/1newdrill.jpg

Made a couple of these, they mount to the stock postion on the crossmember. The bush is a front lower control bush off the Z32. Bolts all high tensile.

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/2crossmembermount.jpg

Mount sitting in position with a plate attached to the engine. You can see the bit of steel at the back which I'm getting ready to tack up. Welding upside down under the car is tricky :(
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/3inposition.jpg


http://www.photodump.org/stored28/4completedmount.jpg

All done, welds are... large... :p Warped the plate a bit.

Installed
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/5installedmount.jpg

Yay! Holding itself in!
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/6engineholdingitselfin.jpg

Engine mount from the front
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/7mountfromfront.jpg

Anton
05-06-2009, 05:32 PM
they look simple and effective, good job

do you mind taking a pic from above showing the space between the front of the engine and the rad support, just wondering how much room there is to play with

Chrispy
05-06-2009, 05:33 PM
Sure, will do. There's enough for the rad, but no fans :p Bit of angle on the rad and they will fit.

Anton
05-06-2009, 05:36 PM
i'm probably going to V mount in in the nose anyway, I have some EL thermo's and the whole lot fits with a little bit of massaging. Was more about room for front mount turbo's and plumbing

Chrispy
05-06-2009, 05:43 PM
Tight, but should fit.

hpcoolahan
05-06-2009, 05:52 PM
Looking good Chrispy , well done mate.
Dam im hanging to see this project come to completion, gunna be a beast.
Cheers
Patrick

Anton
05-06-2009, 09:02 PM
any clearance issues with the oil filter?

rollin
06-06-2009, 08:22 AM
whats the walll thickness of that tube chris?

you cheated with the drill press too, i had to do mine by hand and it was 8mm plate too :(

Chrispy
06-06-2009, 08:58 AM
any clearance issues with the oil filter?

It's a bit squeezy, I'm remote mounting mine so not too fussed. I'll probably hack the side off and TIG on some AN fittings.

whats the walll thickness of that tube chris?

you cheated with the drill press too, i had to do mine by hand and it was 8mm plate too :(

Pipe is schd 10, so around the 2-3mm mark. I had some tube originally, but it was way too thin.

I did my first 8 holes through 8mm plate by hand, and all the holes for my roll cage... If you go straight it's not too bad, when you get it on a slight angle it always grabs just as you break through.

Z32 TT
06-06-2009, 03:04 PM
It's a bit squeezy, I'm remote mounting mine so not too fussed. I'll probably hack the side off and TIG on some AN fittings.



Pipe is schd 10, so around the 2-3mm mark. I had some tube originally, but it was way too thin.

I did my first 8 holes through 8mm plate by hand, and all the holes for my roll cage... If you go straight it's not too bad, when you get it on a slight angle it always grabs just as you break through.

what kind of cage do you have is it cusco?

Chrispy
06-06-2009, 04:22 PM
Nope, a one off from someone in Perth, I bought it off PZP. Way better than the Jap bolt in cages.

Chrispy
07-06-2009, 09:47 PM
First up, piccies for Anton:

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/topdownv8.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/frontv8.jpg

Made my sump!

Cut the flange off one of my spare sumps after bolting it down to my dodgy VH. Was going to ust flip the sump then cut and shut to suit, but that ended up a bit too hard. So I just made a whole new one! 1.8mm steel, I just hit it with a hammer until it fit...

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/newsump1.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored28/newsump2.jpg

Magically turn cardboard into steel.
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/newsump3.jpg

Suprisingly it fits!
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/testfitnewsump.jpg

Cut some bits off the side of the old sump and added them to mine, worked ok.
http://www.photodump.org/stored28/alldone.jpg

Still need to add some baffles within the sump, but that can come later. The pickup will be a bit of stuffing around though. Not long till it can get started properly now :thumbup:

black baz
07-06-2009, 10:03 PM
.. and i thought UNI(!!!) exams were on the horizon ...??????

Anton
07-06-2009, 10:12 PM
Looks like you managed to get good volume, nice work. Cheers for the pics too.

Swifty Devil
08-06-2009, 04:00 AM
Dude this looks amazing, you truly have some skill.
may i express one fear though, im worried that the sump is lower than the crossmember and being 1.8mm could easily get cracked going the wrong way into a driveway or too fast into a dip, just a thought.
keep up the awesome work :cool:

Chrispy
08-06-2009, 08:25 AM
.. and i thought UNI(!!!) exams were on the horizon ...??????

On the 23rd Baz ;) That gives me a whole week and a half to study full time :D

Looks like you managed to get good volume, nice work. Cheers for the pics too.

Yeah, about 3.5L. Less than I would have liked, but will get extra capacity with the big oil cooler, remote mount filter and all the lines. Will also be getting a accusump as I don't trust my sump design skills :p And nearly everyone who has done this swap has had oil supply problems...

Dude this looks amazing, you truly have some skill.
may i express one fear though, im worried that the sump is lower than the crossmember and being 1.8mm could easily get cracked going the wrong way into a driveway or too fast into a dip, just a thought.
keep up the awesome work :cool:

Skill?!? Pfft, I just have a big hammer and some enthusiasm :p Not too woried about clearance, it's only 5-10mm lower than the cross member. The steel is the same thickness as the standard sump too. I may make a bash plate up, also to help brace the gearbox.

rollin
08-06-2009, 08:52 AM
good work again chris. i hope you tested th sump for leaks, its easy to get pinholes with a mig. get something reallt light like kerosene and leave it in the sump for a few hours, see if any weeps thru

Chrispy
08-06-2009, 09:34 AM
Haven't tested it as of yet, just held it up to the light and fixed any little holes I saw.

Z32 TT
08-06-2009, 01:32 PM
Wow nice work mate!! im doing a tig course at tafe soon i hope i can do half as good as you!. you seriously could probably make a bit of dosh creating a mount/sump kit for this conversion!!

Good luck

Chrispy
08-06-2009, 02:14 PM
Well my welding sucks :( Filled the sump up with water, pissing out everywhere :( Marked the leaks and welded them up.

Repeated 5 times.

Still leaks :(

Think I might pay someone :(

Anyone know of any suitable sealants?

Z32 TT
08-06-2009, 02:45 PM
haha well if i weld half as good as you ill be up shit creek without a boat :D

Im sure it wont cost bugger all if you take it to a boiler maker with all the parts there ready to weld.

ZEDZY
08-06-2009, 02:45 PM
LOL.

Well your making good progress anyway.

rollin
08-06-2009, 04:32 PM
Well my welding sucks :( Filled the sump up with water, pissing out everywhere :( Marked the leaks and welded them up.

Repeated 5 times.

Still leaks :(

Think I might pay someone :(

Anyone know of any suitable sealants?

yeah its a bitch hey chris, and hot oil wil find its way out of the smallest holes.

I use a local tank manufacturer, they could finish it off no worries for you. cheap too

Chrispy
08-06-2009, 05:01 PM
I'll give it another shot and try and salvage it. All the welding on the inside is warping the flange a bit though. I have another sump, so I may just get the whole thing done up by someone who knows what they are doing :p

rollin
08-06-2009, 05:05 PM
I'll give it another shot and try and salvage it. All the welding on the inside is warping the flange a bit though. I have another sump, so I may just get the whole thing done up by someone who knows what they are doing :p

no exaggeration, it would be like 80 bucks to get it done

Chrispy
08-06-2009, 05:13 PM
OK, send me some details please :D

Z32 TT
09-06-2009, 06:35 PM
what about oil drainage issues with the sump been ultra close to the windage tray?? I dont know much about this area though i assumed the process used gravity and yours looks flat? will it cause problems?

Chrispy
10-06-2009, 07:12 PM
The depth is pretty much as standard. Yes mine is a bit flat, but that will be OK (probably :p).

Managed to con one of the fitter-welders at work to fix up my dodgy welding :D It's great what you can get in exchange for grog!

Chrispy
11-06-2009, 08:47 PM
All done! Had all my dodgy welds ground back and then all TIG-ed up :D Not bad for a bottle of Jack Daniels :p

Gotta work out what I'm going to do with the oil pickup, thinking about a external feed line to the oil pump, might be easier (and more reliable).

Anton
11-06-2009, 09:58 PM
no enough room to just chop an re-shape? how is it more reliable?

Z32 TT
12-06-2009, 11:44 AM
All done! Had all my dodgy welds ground back and then all TIG-ed up :D Not bad for a bottle of Jack Daniels :p

Gotta work out what I'm going to do with the oil pickup, thinking about a external feed line to the oil pump, might be easier (and more reliable).

wow let me know how you go with that, it will test your engineering skills thats for sure :eek:

Chrispy
12-06-2009, 06:07 PM
no enough room to just chop an re-shape? how is it more reliable?

Well my welds aren't the best :p

There isn't much room at all to run the pickup line between the windage plate and the sump. I'll have a fiddle with my old block on the weekend.

Chrispy
02-07-2009, 09:00 PM
Update time! Yay!

Sump is done.

Oil pickup is done.

PCV pipework is done.

Sump is installed and goo-ed on.

All the stupid little vac lines are connected where required for now. Bit of mucking around to get the carbon canister and EGR working.

Dip stick tube chopped off and welded onto the sump kick out. Old VH dipstick was cut down and re-kinked to sit at the right depth

Mounts and sump are painted

JUN fly on, loctited and torqued up.

Exedy 5 puck brass button on, loctited and torqued up.

All in all things are progressing. It's amazing how much gets done when you don't have a job or any study to do :p Piccies up later.

Fingers crossed there will be a little vid up tomorrow arvo for your aural pleasure :D

Z32 TT
02-07-2009, 10:33 PM
oh im real excited!!!

hpcoolahan
03-07-2009, 06:54 AM
Waiting , waiting , im hanging for this vid Chrispy......well done man!!

Cheers
Patrick

Sanouske
03-07-2009, 09:56 AM
Is it ready yet =) =) =) pretty please..... ;) ;) ;) haha
looks good so far, should be an exciting time hearing it roar!

Z32 TT
03-07-2009, 10:41 AM
ETA on quad cam v8 7000rpm skid :D ?

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 10:49 AM
Engine is back in now, but ran into a little snag. My sump interferes with one of the bolts holding the steering rack in. I'll just adjust it with my percussive adjuster :p

Shouldn't be too long now :D

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 03:01 PM
:D

It's a bit loud...

hpcoolahan
03-07-2009, 03:42 PM
*****This Thread is useless without Video*****

lol:D

Patrick

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 05:18 PM
Clicky (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jALIMTKBqwU)

Just so you don't miss it :p

Martin
03-07-2009, 05:26 PM
awesome work!!! congrats mate

Red_Turtle_Z
03-07-2009, 05:28 PM
Whoah gees Chrispy!!!! she's got some serious grunt happenin there....:thumbup:

Anton
03-07-2009, 05:31 PM
does the stock driveshaft work with the adaptor plate in place or haven't got that far yet? Awesome to see the progress :D

hpcoolahan
03-07-2009, 05:40 PM
thats AWESOME Chris, well done mate.
Ive so got to see this beast when its finnished.

Nice and loud straight out the pipes hey..lol

It's Aliveeeeee

Cheers
Patrick

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 05:41 PM
does the stock driveshaft work with the adaptor plate in place or haven't got that far yet? Awesome to see the progress :D

Should work, haven't tried as of yet. I have used the standard gearbox mount so the distance between the 'box and diff should be same as stock.

The sump is leaking a bit still :mad: I think I might draw one up in Cad and get it made up by a ally fabrication place.

sandeep
03-07-2009, 05:44 PM
very nice... great success :thumbup:

a2zed
03-07-2009, 06:35 PM
Well done Chris. Coming along nicely.

MagicMike
03-07-2009, 06:42 PM
Good stuff Chrispy! :D Should it be smoking like that???

Mountain runs again soon :D

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 07:01 PM
Good stuff Chrispy! :D Should it be smoking like that???

Mountain runs again soon :D

Haha, probably not :p

Hasn't been run in 2 years or so, so not surprising. Probably had a bit of oil seeping in from the heads and whatnot. I'll worry about it if it doesn't stop :p

Next steps:

Coolant system

Fix sump leaks

Make some extractors, off to the exhaust shop soon to get some 'supplies'

Rebuild diff and install LSD

Workout if I have to mod my roll cage to comply with stupid QLD transport regs or will CAMS regs be enough.

So yeah, bit to keep me busy. :thumbup:

MagicMike
03-07-2009, 07:21 PM
Make me a cage - or at least take it somewhere to get a copy :D I'll pay ya for it even :D

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 07:22 PM
You buy me a good pipe bender and I'll do it for free :p

MagicMike
03-07-2009, 07:33 PM
Who wants to go halves in a pipe bender? :D

black baz
03-07-2009, 07:35 PM
chrispy ... your abilities never cease to amaze me ... congrats on progress to date ...

... and air coolled ... lol.... !!!!

Chrispy
03-07-2009, 08:05 PM
chrispy ... your abilities never cease to amaze me ... congrats on progress to date ...

... and air coolled ... lol.... !!!!

You flatter me Baz... Still nothing compared with your cooking skills at the Chardy Shack!

Nothing wrong with air cooled if it's for a short stint :p It has oil, that's all it REALLY needs.

Peter Black
03-07-2009, 09:16 PM
Who wants to go halves in a pipe bender? :D

How much do they cost?

:D

Chrispy
04-07-2009, 07:27 AM
Around $3k :p

Peter Black
04-07-2009, 07:46 AM
Around $3k :p

Hmmm, and how much are we looking at in materials to make a roll cage?

This is starting to look financially viable....
:eek:

mr zed x
04-07-2009, 07:52 AM
Hmmm, and how much are we looking at in materials to make a roll cage?

This is starting to look financially viable....
:eek:

VT ss roll cage are around 1400 and cams approved. highly doubt it could be much more for a zed made one? lol.

on topic.

crispy your car is outstanding.
i watched the other 450z video on youtube and that thing was a beast.
if its anything to go by, your zed will be amazing!

well done with everything mate!

kindest regards.
rod.

directzx
04-07-2009, 09:36 AM
FARK... thats awesome!


well done, i cant wait to see this thing rolling around shredding tyres and the road!

so whats left on the to-do list chrispy?

Cam
04-07-2009, 09:53 AM
I can supply a pipe bender in exchange for cheaper cage! :D

ed300zx
04-07-2009, 03:01 PM
good stuff chrisy ma boy....you will need those plates soon i guess lol

Chrispy
07-07-2009, 05:51 PM
I've ordered all the mandrel bends and collectors I need to make my extractors. Should pick them up tomorrow :D

Cut off my standard exhaust flanges today. Die ground the thick welds of the inside where the pipes go into them. The flanges are cast iron so I had to leave some of the steel pipe sticking out other wise I would never get a good weld happening.

Bit of a differance is possible :eek:

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/diegroundmanifold.jpg

Chrispy
11-07-2009, 01:21 PM
I've been busy :D

Got a big pile of mandrel bends, a couple of collectors and some tube.

Chucked the old header flange on the motor and had a look, got some 90's, trimmed the long bit off, squished the end in the vice and tacked them on. Kept having a fiddle and chucking bits on and lining it up under the Z. Here's the story in pictures :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors1.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors3.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors4.jpg

All tacked up.
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors5.jpg

All welded except the collector, which was good, as I had to chop 120mm off it, it was a bit long and would effect ground clearance :eek:
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors6.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors7.jpg

Lots better than stock :)
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/extractors8.jpg

They aren't equal length, well runners 2 and 3 are close, but 1 and 4 are miles off :p Meh, too hard and not much room down there. Least I can remove these with the engine in place, just have to drop the crossmember to angle them the right way. All in all about 10 hours work I think, not bad for a first attempt :thumbup:

pmack
11-07-2009, 01:42 PM
Nice going , Is that the easy or hard side? You just need a couple of all nighters and this will be getting registered next week !

Z32 TT
11-07-2009, 02:14 PM
wow mate really nice fab work there looks really good.

Chrispy
11-07-2009, 02:53 PM
Yeah, that's the easy side :( Oh well... Starting on the hard side today. I'm going to need a whole lot more bends :eek: I had four of each of the following: 90deg, 180deg and 45deg. Got two 180's and 45's left :eek: There is slightly more width on the drivers side as there is no oil pump housing and the motor is slightly offset due to the room needed for the accessories (not that bad, everyone does that with the Z32 or S13/14 swap.)

My biggest problem at the moment is having parts at hand. I'm not thinking ahead far enough, and I'm often short ordering. Once I have this other extractor done I think I will start on the cooling system as well as getting the sump drawn up in CAD to get it made proffessionally.

At this stage the biggest hurdle I've got coming up is the bonnet. Anyone know any classic car restorers who work with ally a bit?

And another Q. Welding wire for 316SS OK for use with 304SS? I think it is, but can't remember for sure.

pmack
11-07-2009, 04:34 PM
Yeah, that's the easy side :( Oh well... Starting on the hard side today. I'm going to need a whole lot more bends :eek: I had four of each of the following: 90deg, 180deg and 45deg. Got two 180's and 45's left :eek: There is slightly more width on the drivers side as there is no oil pump housing and the motor is slightly offset due to the room needed for the accessories (not that bad, everyone does that with the Z32 or S13/14 swap.)

My biggest problem at the moment is having parts at hand. I'm not thinking ahead far enough, and I'm often short ordering. Once I have this other extractor done I think I will start on the cooling system as well as getting the sump drawn up in CAD to get it made proffessionally.

At this stage the biggest hurdle I've got coming up is the bonnet. Anyone know any classic car restorers who work with ally a bit?

And another Q. Welding wire for 316SS OK for use with 304SS? I think it is, but can't remember for sure.

316 wire is fine , I normaly just buy 180's and cut what i need from them(cheaper)

ed300zx
11-07-2009, 05:32 PM
your a smart kid chris...great work, keep it up

Cam
11-07-2009, 05:52 PM
Where's the turbo gonna go? :p

MagicMike
11-07-2009, 05:53 PM
Nice work Chrispy! So are you good enuf to weld my cats in yet? :p

a2zed
11-07-2009, 06:12 PM
How are you going to snake 4 pipes aroung the steering shaft. I looked at doing that but my starter is in the way, is yours close to the normal z position?

Chrispy
11-07-2009, 06:59 PM
Nice work Chrispy! So are you good enuf to weld my cats in yet? :p

Yeah, but not if they are stainless, haven't got the wire yet :p

How are you going to snake 4 pipes aroung the steering shaft. I looked at doing that but my starter is in the way, is yours close to the normal z position?

Carefully :p There is enough room, looks like it will go OK. Probably 2 each side, have to have a proper look tomorrow, too busy cleaning the shed up today. Starter is on the standard Z32 gearbox, so that adds a bit of room. If I was using the standard VH45 starter I would be in trouble as it is on the engine side rather than the gearbox side.

Drift Spec
11-07-2009, 07:47 PM
Love your work Chris!!! Cant wait to see this thing fly. Mite have to book a flight with you to NZ n back, Snow boarding is good this time of year i hear.:D:D:D

Chrispy
13-07-2009, 09:28 PM
Had a few people ask me about clearance beside the block at the rear with the view of twin turbo's. I took some piccies, in the dark, lying on my back under the car. Not the clearest but should give some indication. I reckon T28's would fit with some creative pipework, there is a lot more room than I expected now that I'm having a good look. For comparison my truck turbo fits with touching the gearbox and chassis on the passenger side, so there is heaps of room there. Enough room for an external gate between the head and the firewall too. If anyone wants to lend me some 28's to do a quick test fit then shoot them to me ;)

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/driversideclear.jpg.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/passsideclear.jpg

Radiator clears. Just. You can see why the 16" thermo won't fit...
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/radinpos.jpg

And from the front. Mounting the oil cooler on it's side and to the right, bracket off the headlight housing thing. Oil filter on the right, should be plenty of access through the front bar.
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/radfromfront.jpg

UAS bar in, and clears everything, swaybar isn't in the correct postion at the moment, was just a quick test fit to make sure it cleared everything.
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/uasbarin.jpg

I promise I'll do the drivers side extractor tomorrow, got side tracked with moving the rad support brackets from NA to TT positions and talking to the guy at the local Speed Shop :p

IB
13-07-2009, 11:51 PM
Looks like you've tacked some of the runners together. It's not a good idea to do that as it will cause cracking.

Chrispy
14-07-2009, 08:45 AM
Hmm, OK. They are all fully welded at the collector, not sure if it would really have an effect at all... Easy enough to cut off though. I had them tacked before I welded the centre together so it would stay square.

AndyMac
14-07-2009, 09:13 AM
OK, as per our discussion the other night Crispy, I will be coming up to use your shed when the time is right :p

I've ordered all the mandrel bends and collectors I need to make my extractors. Should pick them up tomorrow :D

Cut off my standard exhaust flanges today. Die ground the thick welds of the inside where the pipes go into them. The flanges are cast iron so I had to leave some of the steel pipe sticking out other wise I would never get a good weld happening.

Bit of a differance is possible :eek:

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/diegroundmanifold.jpg

Benny_C
14-07-2009, 09:40 AM
lol at your TED radiator upper plug. Good choice, thought you'd use a girlie drink cap instead :p:D

Z32 TT
14-07-2009, 10:17 AM
OK, as per our discussion the other night Crispy, I will be coming up to use your shed when the time is right :p

wow that is one tight fit :eek:

Chrispy
14-07-2009, 10:46 AM
OK, as per our discussion the other night Crispy, I will be coming up to use your shed when the time is right :p

Sure thing Andy, just have to wait till I get this paint in the arse out of there. So when you moving up to God's country? :p Way better than Sydney :D

lol at your TED radiator upper plug. Good choice, thought you'd use a girlie drink cap instead :p:D

Haha, trust you... Leigh put it there at Cowra when I was fixing it from the overheating episode on the trip down.

wow that is one tight fit :eek:

Not too bad, fits better than a RB26.

ed300zx
14-07-2009, 10:52 AM
Not too bad, fits better than a RB26.

do you know off hand how much longer the rb is than the vh chris? and dont say the rb is 2cyl longer lol...

Chrispy
14-07-2009, 11:22 AM
Lol, not really. In Zturbo's he had to mount the radiator under the rad support. So I guess another 60-80mm or so. If you have spare one I'll chuck it in and see :p Wouldn't mind doing a 30/26 into a Z, that'd be pretty good I reckon.

IB
14-07-2009, 12:45 PM
Hmm, OK. They are all fully welded at the collector, not sure if it would really have an effect at all... Easy enough to cut off though. I had them tacked before I welded the centre together so it would stay square.

It's only that I've seen the resultant cracking and the guy trying to fix all the cracks said they were caused by tacking the runners together.

It's your call but to reduce future grief, I'd recommend cutting the tack welds.

Chrispy
16-07-2009, 07:31 PM
Got the drivers side extractor done. Not fun at all. Only just clears, like a few mm.

Here's lotsa piccies, nothing too different from last time. How I got them in the right place was by starting with the 4th runner and tacking the collector where I wanted it, then did the start of the 1st runner to give me a good idea how much room I had to play with. Took it off the engine then did the rest on the bench with a test fit every so often.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor1.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor2.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor3.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor4.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor5.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor6.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor7.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor8.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor9.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor10.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor11.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/dsextractor12.jpg

Also cut a dirty great hole in the bonnet. The engine doesn't stick through as much as I expected. I used a damaged sparesy I had hanging around (look familiar r33k?) This was more for my own amusement than anything. I'll take my good original bonnet to get modified by someone who knows what they are doing :p Anyone recommend someone who can make me a scoop out of ally?

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/holeinbonnet.jpg
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/holeinbonnet2.jpg

ed300zx
16-07-2009, 07:37 PM
great stuff chris....looking awesome

Chrispy
16-07-2009, 07:40 PM
Thanks Erik, shouldn't be too long at all now. Everything is coming together nicely, which is a suprise... I must say the exhaust manifolds where a LOT easier than I was expecting, thought that would take weeks to get done. If anyone is thinking about it, give it a go.

Z32 TT
16-07-2009, 07:47 PM
Thanks Erik, shouldn't be too long at all now. Everything is coming together nicely, which is a suprise... I must say the exhaust manifolds where a LOT easier than I was expecting, thought that would take weeks to get done. If anyone is thinking about it, give it a go.

really?? how much did the materials cost you??

a2zed
16-07-2009, 07:48 PM
Once you work out in your mind how you want the pipes to run, they come together real quick. Took me longer to make the mounts than the manifolds.

Chrispy
16-07-2009, 07:57 PM
really?? how much did the materials cost you??

Umm, about $600 I think :eek: That was for 7 of 180deg mandrel bends, 4 of 90deg mandrel bends, 4 of 45deg mandrel bends, 2 of 1 5/8" to 3" collectors, 4 of 3" flanges with bolts and gaskets, 2 of O2 bungs, exhaust gasket paper stuff to make new gaskets for the heads, 3m of 1 5/8" exhaust pipe and I think that was about it.

If I was going to do it again I would have got only 180deg mandrel bends as they only cost 50% more than the 45's and 90's but you get heaps more bend for your buck. Also didn't need anywhere near as much pipe as I bought, 1m would have been heaps. The bends come with 150mm on each side of the bend.

Also used 6 fineline cutting discs and a grinding wheel and a flap disc. Flap discs rule! Much more controllable than a normal grinding wheel.

Once you work out in your mind how you want the pipes to run, they come together real quick. Took me longer to make the mounts than the manifolds.

Yep, I think I was the same, lot of mucking about with the mounts (I'm still not happy with mine).

And that enormous Holset wouldn't fit, the compressor housing and actuator are just too big. Interesting thing is though the inducer on the compressor is the same size as the TO4B2 I have. It has a much 'fatter' housing, but with a smaller radius. I'll drop it back to you sometime soon.

r33k
16-07-2009, 08:00 PM
Also cut a dirty great hole in the bonnet. The engine doesn't stick through as much as I expected. I used a damaged sparesy I had hanging around (look familiar r33k?) This was more for my own amusement than anything. I'll take my good original bonnet to get modified by someone who knows what they are doing :p Anyone recommend someone who can make me a scoop out of ally?

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/holeinbonnet.jpg


:eek: Chris! give the purple people eater some respect and wipe off the dust :)

Wondered where that bonnet got to :)

Kieren
16-07-2009, 08:04 PM
Since the engine only sits above the bonnet marginally, could you rework the bonnet to have a 'power bulge' down the centre instead of the scoop? That way it would still be one piece.

Chrispy
16-07-2009, 08:14 PM
:eek: Chris! give the purple people eater some respect and wipe off the dust :)

Wondered where that bonnet got to :)
:p Yep, I picked it up from AMEC when they shut down. I'll give it a wipe tomorrow :D


Since the engine only sits above the bonnet marginally, could you rework the bonnet to have a 'power bulge' down the centre instead of the scoop? That way it would still be one piece.

That's the plan, don't want a scoop as such, just a cover of some sort.

Something like this

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x296/mungyz/024800x600.jpg

Pinched from Mungyz :p

r33k
16-07-2009, 08:26 PM
Why not craft an 8-way throttle body like 500 ZX?

Anton
16-07-2009, 09:00 PM
what size holset did you try to fit? A HX50? anything smaller and it better be the 6 or 7 blade version or it will choke pretty quick.

Really impressive stuff chris, very close now. Mind giving a rough break down on price, specifically the collectors and 180* bends. The prices I got for the collectors were huge

a2zed
16-07-2009, 09:34 PM
A hx50 is a bit of overkill, those will go 1200hp + on a 5ltr v8. It was a hx35w which should give a lazy 500hp on a vh.

The holsets are also available in many different configurations aswell so not all hx50's are the same, just like not all t28 garrets are the same.

Anton
16-07-2009, 10:03 PM
A hx50 is a bit of overkill, those will go 1200hp + on a 5ltr v8. It was a hx35w which should give a lazy 500hp on a vh.

The holsets are also available in many different configurations aswell so not all hx50's are the same, just like not all t28 garrets are the same.

from the maps I've seen the 6 blade HX35 might do that but not the 8 blade, it just doesn't have the width in the bottom of the map. The HX35 would be awesome on a smaller engine with a different rear housing because of the ability of the turbo to push high flow at very high pressures, but on a larger engine it will choke at low boost and large flow.

I found a H2E (9551BA) to be a laggy choice for the VH being inside 70% efficiency @60Lb/min @ 10psi but wouldn't spool until the engine reached 35lb/min (4500rpm?)
The H2C (8625N) had better width and was just outside of the 70% island @60LB/Min, 10psi so a more streetable turbo

Anyway, I have collected and compared info on a lot of the holsets, but this thread probably shouldn't be whored out with that

Cra-Z-Boy
16-07-2009, 10:21 PM
Love your work Chris .
You never cease to amaze me with your endless tallents
Will have to pop over next time im down your way and have a look at the beast

a2zed
16-07-2009, 10:26 PM
Almost all maps on the net of holsets are not accurate as holset does not release their maps. An example of that is comparing the h2e to the h2c, the h2e has a turbine housing 3cm2 smaller than the h2c, this will make it a more responsive turbo and should produce usable boost around 2500rpm.

Sorry for whoring chris but its not often you can get other info on holsets.

Chrispy
17-07-2009, 09:43 AM
Why not craft an 8-way throttle body like 500 ZX?

Because of $$, it's about USD$2000 for a kit to start making them myself, then I need to muck around with modding lower runners, throttle linkages, fuel rails etc. Massive exercise. Maybe later when I have nothing to do and lots of spare money clogging my accounts up :p

what size holset did you try to fit? A HX50? anything smaller and it better be the 6 or 7 blade version or it will choke pretty quick.

Really impressive stuff chris, very close now. Mind giving a rough break down on price, specifically the collectors and 180* bends. The prices I got for the collectors were huge

Collectors were $40 ea, the 180deg mandrels where $30 ea. The bends are overpriced IMO. I gave OneSteel a call when i was still working and a 90deg bend in 1 5/8" was about $1.80... Rang them again to order and they said they didn't have them :confused: Anyway...

A hx50 is a bit of overkill, those will go 1200hp + on a 5ltr v8. It was a hx35w which should give a lazy 500hp on a vh.

The holsets are also available in many different configurations aswell so not all hx50's are the same, just like not all t28 garrets are the same.

It was a HX40W, it's got 6 blades (or is that 12? It is if you count the baby blades under the big ones)

Here are some piccies comparing my TO4B2 to Eric's HX40W. Same inducer, didn't want to pull the housing off the Holset as it's not mine to measure the exducer :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/bigturbos1.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/bigturbos2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/bigturbos3.jpg

Love your work Chris .
You never cease to amaze me with your endless tallents
Will have to pop over next time im down your way and have a look at the beast

Sure thing Chris, next time your in Brissy give me a yell.


Sorry for whoring chris but its not often you can get other info on holsets.

Never a problem ;) It's interesting whoring so I like it :p

Anton
17-07-2009, 01:37 PM
It was a HX40W, it's got 6 blades (or is that 12? It is if you count the baby blades under the big ones)

Here are some piccies comparing my TO4B2 to Eric's HX40W. Same inducer, didn't want to pull the housing off the Holset as it's not mine to measure the exducer :p



The 6 Blade HX40 is one of the most sought after Holsets, huge flow and map width and very good spool characteristics. Would suit the VH very well. Is there room for it up front?

Sanouske
17-07-2009, 02:03 PM
WOW! just WOW!

Got some tallents in you, making exhaust mani's is frustrating until you do work out exactly how you need it. But those you've made are great! Good work!

Will have to upload another vid soon, when its comming together.

Cant wait till the next installment.

Chrispy
17-07-2009, 02:30 PM
The 6 Blade HX40 is one of the most sought after Holsets, huge flow and map width and very good spool characteristics. Would suit the VH very well. Is there room for it up front?

I'll give it a shot, but I think it will be too tight. Might be OK with a external gate though.

a2zed
17-07-2009, 06:37 PM
If your engine wasn't a kilometer wide you might have been able to fit it where mine is.

directzx
17-07-2009, 06:50 PM
hey mate
good stuff on the build up...cant wait till this thing is out n about.


have a look at this, someone on SAU went with ITB on his RB20 rally car...

he used the throttle bodies from a 20v 4AGE corrolla, had a custom plenum/runners made up all tuned length for his big cams.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8361/itbs001al2.jpg
that all of them lined up... 42mm internal diameter


DO IT!



























































please

Chrispy
17-07-2009, 07:38 PM
Haha, I know all about 20V 4AGE's, one of the best 4 pots ever. Still a hell of a lot of mucking around and those ITB's go for about $500 a set, so still big $$

directzx
17-07-2009, 11:04 PM
really... far out, would have thought you could get an old clapped out rolla for around that lol.

still, food for thought, definatly cheaper then that other us mob that has those awesome looking kits

Big_al_TT92ZX
18-07-2009, 01:22 AM
really... far out, would have thought you could get an old clapped out rolla for around that lol.

I think there's a term for that, it's called 'Takumi Tax', lol! Because they've developed such a cult following, like Supra's, it's allowed sellers to jack up prices on their parts/cars because the demand is there, people want these parts and are willing to pay a little bit more than what they should be!

r33k
18-07-2009, 04:31 PM
If your engine wasn't a kilometer wide you might have been able to fit it where mine is.

< E P I C > Piss take! :D

Chrispy
18-07-2009, 07:23 PM
I think there's a term for that, it's called 'Takumi Tax', lol! Because they've developed such a cult following, like Supra's, it's allowed sellers to jack up prices on their parts/cars because the demand is there, people want these parts and are willing to pay a little bit more than what they should be!

Not only the Takumi tax, there is also a fair bit of demand for Corolla parts in general. If it's rare it's big dollars. If you want a C160 6 speeder then that will go for $1000+ and you will have people at your door within 2 hours to pick it up. For some reason these people buy crappy little hatchbacks then spend more than the purchase price on seats or wheels. The ITB's off the silver/black tops are rare as most are attached to motors that just don't die (even though they rev to 8200+RPM)

< E P I C > Piss take! :D

Not as bad as the other night, he said I had 57 cam shafts :rolleyes:

a2zed
19-07-2009, 09:40 AM
Not as bad as the other night, he said I had 57 cam shafts :rolleyes:


Hehehe, all them oily bits and you still only got 4.5L, pfft :D

tassuperkart
19-07-2009, 05:41 PM
LOL Ouch!!!!!!

directzx
19-07-2009, 08:16 PM
haha... i think its more about the love of the car rather then the age/price

just like a zed, you can pick one up pretty cheap nowadays but even then... it dosnt mean its cheap to bring it back to life and make something out of it.

Chrispy
13-08-2009, 08:04 PM
Update time! I'm going to try and pull my finger out and get this done. Sick of having it sit in the shed do nothing!

Dropped some plans, my old sump and a jig off at the Ally fabrication place today to get the new sump made. Should be done in 3 weeks or so.

Changed my front lower control arm bushes too! Fire makes everything better :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/SANY0129.jpg

Got a braided line made up to go from the clutch master to the manifold block thing. I've converted to a banjo fitting to give me that extra 10mm or so to clear the cam covers. And it looks sexy!

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/SANY0130.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/SANY0131.jpg


I've also put the interior back in minus the cluster as I will have to recalibrate the tacho once the engine is back in again. Cage is staying out for the time being, stupid QLD transport rules may require me to cut it to bits and add in 6mm thick base plates! Stupidity!

I've had another good look at the throw out bearing and it's location in relation to the flywheel. The flywheel isn't as well located as I thought it was. It is only just engaging with the starter. I'm going to have to space the fly out another 4-5mm, so I have to find my spare VH spacer and get some slightly longer bolts :( Can't find the little prick, it's in the shed somewhere....


So my list of stuff to get done now:

Fix fly/throwout bearing issues
Get rad modded
Get upper thermostat housing modded, just a quick cut and shut
Make exhaust
Front bar, guards and bonnet to be done.

So not too much longer now!

Oh yeah, new plates too!

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/IMG_0545.JPG

MagicMike
13-08-2009, 08:39 PM
Race ya? :D

hukie90
13-08-2009, 09:17 PM
love it mate, cars looking awsome mate, keep it up

:p Yep, I picked it up from AMEC when they shut down. I'll give it a wipe tomorrow :D




That's the plan, don't want a scoop as such, just a cover of some sort.

Something like this

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x296/mungyz/024800x600.jpg

Pinched from Mungyz :p

Anton
13-08-2009, 10:35 PM
what are you doing with the old sump?

ztoy
13-08-2009, 10:43 PM
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/SANY0129.jpg


WOAH, Dude, buy a press. Its heaps easier, not as fun though:p

Chrispy
14-08-2009, 08:10 AM
what are you doing with the old sump?

Nothing, it's sitting engine keeping the dust out :p If you reckon you can fix all the leaks you can have it when my new sump is done.

WOAH, Dude, buy a press. Its heaps easier, not as fun though:p

Picking one up today ;) The instructions that came with those bushes specifically said to use 'heat' to remove the old bushes while leaving the shells in place.

BiGZ
14-08-2009, 08:47 AM
That looks abit on the excessive side of 'heat' :P

Mitch
14-08-2009, 09:28 AM
Not as much heat as this:
http://www.wired.com/images/productreviews/2008/06/bernzomatic_trigger_start_torch_f.jpg

Best tool I have ever bought. Comes in so handy :D

Chrispy
14-08-2009, 09:33 AM
Lol, that's pretty much what I was using :p

Anton
14-08-2009, 12:49 PM
Nothing, it's sitting engine keeping the dust out :p If you reckon you can fix all the leaks you can have it when my new sump is done.



:D thankyou, dad thinks he can

Alloy sump would look the shit though

Chrispy
26-08-2009, 10:31 AM
Got some bits back yesterday.

Radiator with the outlet changed to suit the electric water pump.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/moddedrad.JPG


Thermostat housing cut and shut so it won't stick out of the bonnet :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/moddedthermo.JPG


And got my flywheel spacer made up, twice the thickness of the standard spacer. Most of the people in the states just use two standard spacers, but I lost one and got this made. Then I found my other one :rolleyes: Always the way.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/flyspacer.JPG

Just waiting on some bolts from Melbourne that are a few mm longer. M10x1.0x40 is what I'm using in a 12.9 super dooper high tensile.

Sump should be ready in 2 weeks or so, not too much I'm waiting on now. Just have to move the rad mounts 20mm to the pass side so the new outlet clears everything right. Not a biggy.

Also gotta do the last plenum pull, put the thermostat housing in and water lines etc.

Peter Black
26-08-2009, 01:08 PM
Where does the thermostat sit on the engine that it was going to stick out the bonnet?

Also, this thread is getting huge, a bloody hassle to look through in threaded mode, which we all know is the best mode.

Anton
26-08-2009, 01:27 PM
thermostat sits at the top of the valley

Chris; are you going to use a temp switch for the water pump or run it constantly and keep the thermostat in there?

Chrispy
26-08-2009, 02:56 PM
Where does the thermostat sit on the engine that it was going to stick out the bonnet?

Also, this thread is getting huge, a bloody hassle to look through in threaded mode, which we all know is the best mode.

Yep, as Anton said, right up top. The actual housing is fine, it's the big water pipe thing with the PCV mount on it that sticks out of the bonnet.

This thread is shorter than part 1 :p And normal people using the forum how it is meant to be used don't have any problems :p I don't really want to drag this out to part 3...

thermostat sits at the top of the valley

Chris; are you going to use a temp switch for the water pump or run it constantly and keep the thermostat in there?

Yes, I have the fancy digital controller. I'm drilling and tapping the standard gauge port bigger to suit a CTS for the controller. I have another mount in the radiator that is the right size for the gauge sender.

Anton
26-08-2009, 05:08 PM
sounds good, does the controller have a variable voltage going to the pump depending on temp or is it on/off. I haven't looked into what the pump can handle but if it works I may just have it running all the time at low speed and then get it to run full speed at 85* and more

Chrispy
30-08-2009, 08:57 PM
Info is here (pdf) on the pump controller. (http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Images/Categories/Switch%20&%20Controller%20Selection%20Guide%20&%20Tech%20Specs%202009.pdf)

Quite clever and a bit more power hopefully :D


Did the final plenum pull today. All the PCV lines are sorted and clamped. Got a couple of lines with small splits, so I've sealed them with goo. If they don't hold up I might bite the bullet and buy new or use braided line. They are weird formed shapes so I can't just use normal line :(

Sump shouldn't be too far off, picking up my long bolts tomorrow. Also got a fuel rail adapter coming from the UK so I can run my Turbosmart FPR800. The VH uses a on rail FPR like the skylines and RX7's.

Not long now!! Can't wait to take it for a spin around the block :D

a2zed
30-08-2009, 09:00 PM
A quick tip for hard to get or expensive hose that is split.

Run a thin smear of silicon around the hose, then use the appropriate size heat shrink, slip it over the split and shrink it. Works like magic.

Martin
30-08-2009, 09:00 PM
you HAVE to invite me over for a spin when its running :D

Chrispy
30-08-2009, 09:07 PM
you HAVE to invite me over for a spin when its running :D

Sure thing ;)

Mitch
30-08-2009, 11:32 PM
A quick tip for hard to get or expensive hose that is split.

Run a thin smear of silicon around the hose, then use the appropriate size heat shrink, slip it over the split and shrink it. Works like magic.

My hero! This tip rocks for sure :bow2::thumbup:

For the number of times i've been digging thru the hose bucket at repco looking for a bit of pipe that *may* do the job, this idea is genius.
Cheers for the tip!

BiGZ
31-08-2009, 07:30 AM
I don't think 6 pots would fit behind my wheels =/

Chrispy
21-09-2009, 01:42 PM
Quick update, nothing too interesting.


Rear subframe assembly all back together and ready to go back in. I painted my aftermarket arms matte black to make them a little less conspicuous just to be on the safe side. Looks better now they all match too :p

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/rearsubframe.jpg

And back in.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/installingsubframe.jpg

Also got a R33 GTS-T carbon canister as it is heaps smaller.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/carboncanistercompare.jpg

Installed. I just made a little bracket up out of 2mm flat I had.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/newcarboncanisterin.jpg


And this is a bit strange the whiteline front swaybar endlinks are longer than the standard ones at the minimum adjustment. Weird.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/whitelineswaylinks.jpg


Sump still isn't back yet, the fabricators have a ton of work on and a guy off with a injured hand or something... Shouldn't be long apparently :rolleyes:

R31 Gagz
21-09-2009, 01:52 PM
Looks like progress is being made, keep up the good work :cool:

Should have painted your subframe and cleaned all underneath Chrispy while you had it all apart so Mungy has some competition :p

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x296/mungyz/014800x600-1.jpg

Cheers!
Craig

Claymen
21-09-2009, 01:58 PM
I'm doing mine at the moment. using a wire brush attachment to my air drill and cleaning off the surface rust, then a quick treatment with septone one step primer/rust convertor for anything remaining then a once over prime and top coat. should come up nice but im doing mine black to hide away any goodies ;)

Chrispy
21-09-2009, 02:16 PM
Should have painted your subframe and cleaned all underneath Chrispy while you had it all apart so Mungy has some competition :p


I thought about it, but that's as far as I got :p


I'm doing mine at the moment. using a wire brush attachment to my air drill and cleaning off the surface rust, then a quick treatment with septone one step primer/rust convertor for anything remaining then a once over prime and top coat. should come up nice but im doing mine black to hide away any goodies ;)

There was no rust in mine so there wasn't much point. I went the black bushes too as they get a bit funny when using urethane bushes on arms that move in more than one plane up here :rolleyes:


Forgot to add I've also ordered another pile of AN fittings and a Accusump with the super fancy electronic control valve thing. The Moroso one didn't seem as good and for the extra $20 I might as well get the snazzy one :D

Also got coming a Oil Pressure gauge and a AEM UEGO wideband with gauge. Now I have 3 gauges to fit into a 2 gauge pillar mount :( Maybe the wideband will fit where the standard coolant temp gauge sits in the dash.

Z32 TT
21-09-2009, 03:31 PM
Sump still isn't back yet, the fabricators have a ton of work on and a guy off with a injured hand or something... Shouldn't be long apparently :rolleyes:

God **** ****ing fabricators dont even get me started seriously with the amount of demand for these guys at the moment i wonder if we are even in recesion!!

Nigel300
21-09-2009, 05:48 PM
Where did u score dat canister Chris?

Chrispy
22-09-2009, 08:45 AM
Where did u score dat canister Chris?

SAU, where all the skyline parts in the known universe live. $10 :D They all chuck them in the bin. Within 1 hour of puttin the wanted add up I had about 5 PM's trying to flog one off to me :p

MagicMike
22-09-2009, 08:50 AM
Maybe the wideband will fit where the standard coolant temp gauge sits in the dash.

Shouldn't that be where the coolant temp gauge goes? :p:rolleyes:

Chrispy
23-09-2009, 10:59 AM
Shouldn't that be where the coolant temp gauge goes? :p:rolleyes:

Maybe.... :rolleyes:

The Wideband won't fit anyway, too thick :( Ugly stickytaped gauge cup FTW!

And lookeesee at this! My big box from the states rocked up :D Took like 5 days to get here :eek: I got:

2 Qrt Accusump with control valve, the fancy high flow one set to kick in if pressure drops below 25psi.
Electric oil pressure gauge
Heaps of -10AN fittings
1/8" NPT fittings so I can get the fuel pressure gauge sender plumbed up to the turbosmart regulator.

Already had the cooler, thermostat and -8 fittings, but it makes the picture look better :D

I got a AEM EUGO wideband. Off ebay for $250 or so, bargain! Came with gauge, bosch 5 wire sensor and lots of little plugs :D

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/bitsforsummit.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/shinny.jpg


Nothing better than AN fittings :D
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/shinny2.jpg

-10AN from the oil filter adapter to the oil thermostat and back again. -8AN for the oil cooler and -10AN for the Accusump. I was going to go -8AN for all the oil lines, but some of the guys in the states have had trouble with oil pressure when running -8.


Now I just have to find somewhere to mount the Accusump... Lucky I got the short one :eek: Might go where the battery is. I was thinking under the nose panel, but with the oil cooler and filter it's already getting a bit crowded. Where's yours going Tekky?

tassuperkart
23-09-2009, 11:51 AM
Ahhhhhhhh ...!finally a man with enough forward thinking to fit an oil temp thermostat in conjuction with a larger oil cooler!
Very smart thinking my friend!
Nice load of goodies there dude.
I use precisely the same thing on my race car!

L8tr
E

260DET
23-09-2009, 04:52 PM
A big plus for using a single flywheel spacer rather than two thinner ones. As for locating the Accusump, any space on the firewall? Have heard of people locating them inside the cabin with race cars but don't like that idea myself.

Chrispy
23-09-2009, 05:10 PM
Haven't got much room on the firewall, having trouble finding room for the FPR :eek:

I've also seen them mounted in the cabin, but that is a bit dodgy IMO. Can't see that passing road worthy :p If I can get the oil cooler into one of the side sections where the SMIC lives in a TT there should be plenty of room up front. The oil cooler is quite large and it might be quite squeezy fitting it nicely...

IB
23-09-2009, 05:19 PM
Haven't got much room on the firewall, having trouble finding room for the FPR :eek:

I've also seen them mounted in the cabin, but that is a bit dodgy IMO. Can't see that passing road worthy :p If I can get the oil cooler into one of the side sections where the SMIC lives in a TT there should be plenty of room up front. The oil cooler is quite large and it might be quite squeezy fitting it nicely...

How about putting Accusump where AIV's used to live? Or where an intercooler would normally live?

Chrispy
23-09-2009, 05:24 PM
It's way too big to fit in the standard intercooler spot, tried that earlier today. It may fit up where the AIV's normally live, I'll give it a shot. To give an idea on the size of this thing it's about 110mm diameter and a good 500mm long with the control valve on.

260DET
23-09-2009, 10:11 PM
They are a bitch to find a location for, oil line should be kept as short as possible and needs a suitable run, cylinder should be higher than the engine but thats not essential and its good to be able to read the gauge.

Anton
26-09-2009, 10:15 PM
does it have to be mounted vertically?

Chrispy
27-09-2009, 10:22 AM
does it have to be mounted vertically?

No, that's just the cheap gravity ones. The fancy Accusumps have a piston to seperate the oil and air. Or something like that, anyway it says I can mount it any way I want...

I've decided to weld some brackets to the reo bar and mount it directly behind that. Perfect amount of room :D Well, assuming that I can fit the filter and lines in the engine bay rather than under the nose panel bolted to the chassis where it is now.

Edit:

I have a metal reo bar, that's how I can weld to it :p

Chrispy
14-10-2009, 12:03 PM
Picked up the rest of my exhaust bits yesterday :D 3" mild steel mandrel bend for the extractors. 3" to 2.5" reducer. Few meters of 2.5" 304SS pipe (so shiny!), 4 180deg 2.5" mandrel bends in 304SS, assorted SS flanges, gaskets and O2 bungs.

Got it all from Speedy Exhaust at Everton Hills. $500 for the lot.

Gotta pinch my brother in laws welder as mine is too big for a mini spool of 316L wire :mad: A full spool of wire would have been $450 :eek:

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/stainlessbits.JPG

Sanouske
14-10-2009, 12:26 PM
hehe baby!
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:TBKKidNkjNqYJM:http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_v6SgB3LYD5k/SYHoR8RLEwI/AAAAAAAAATI/fCJ-4yg-2JE/s400/Bart%2BSimpson.jpg

Some quality product there.

ed300zx
14-10-2009, 12:43 PM
500 bucks is a bargin chris...nice work

Chrispy
16-10-2009, 01:05 PM
Nistune board installed!

Here is the original Impul chip. Thankfully they didn't glue this down like they do with some of them.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/nistune1.JPG

And the new board installed. Only had to solder 4 wires in, easy as pie! Wire one goes near the R/W marking on the board. This isn't anywhere in the nistune documentation as I believe I'm the first person besides Matt at Nistune to use a board in a Q45 ecu rather than the usual trick of using a emulator with the Nistune software.
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/nistune2.JPG

MagicMike
16-10-2009, 01:25 PM
Not just a pretty face hey? ;)

Sanouske
16-10-2009, 01:33 PM
delicious...

Chrispy
24-10-2009, 07:11 PM
It's starting to look like a car again :D

Ebay GReddy copy bar. Fits better than I was expecting. The drivers side will need some attention, but the pass side is really quite good.

http://www.photodump.org/stored29/IMG_0791.JPG


You can see that the reo bar hangs real low, have other people noticed this with a UAS/GReddy front bar? I might just be special with my weird metal reo bar though.
http://www.photodump.org/stored29/IMG_0792.JPG


Also did all the wiring for the electric water pump, mounted the controller in the footwell next to the ECU. I've installed the LED indicator for the pump in the standard temp gauge. It's one of those small 2mm (or so) red LED's, I hope the on and off doesn't drive me nuts. Probably worth it to know it's working though.

Now if I ever get this sump back there isn't much left to do.

hpcoolahan
24-10-2009, 08:00 PM
Well the work is still going well mate ,,, but one problem,,, bar looks shit ;).
Have to get rid of it to my place:D

Gonna be a beautiful site and sound when finnished Chrispy.
Keep it up.

Cheers
Patrick

Chrispy
27-10-2009, 07:36 PM
Finally got the sump back today. Looks OK, reasonably light for being made from 6mm plate :rolleyes:

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/IMG_0799.jpg

I gave the inside a cleanout, then tested for leaks. One little tiny one near the dip stick tube thing. No biggie.

Chucked it on the spare motor to check clearance and it doesn't fit at all :mad:

The holes line up, and the body of the sump is mostly correct but the flange is all over the shop. It's far too wide and covers some of the oil returns from the block, no room for the windage tray that bolts to the girdle, no room for the oil pickup as that part of the flange is very wide were they screwed up last time.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/IMG_0801.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/IMG_0802.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/IMG_0803.jpg

Sigh :(

Can only blame myself for not giving them a very accurate drawing of ALL dimensions required. I shouldn't have assumed that they will make the flange the exact same size as the stock one.


In more light hearted news the Accusump is now installed. Just have to get some hose and wire it up to a switch in the cabin.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/IMG_0800.jpg

Now what to do about the sump situation.

I've got a few ideas going through my head:

Try and save my old mild steel sump. Crank the welder up to 11 and try to fill the little bastard pinholes that plague it.
Try and save the new ally sump, this will require a lot of work and I don't want to go back to that shop, it'll probably take another 11 weeks :rolleyes: Will have to pinch my brother in law's welder than takes minispools or go and visit Gav and use his TIG.
Abandon a normal sump design and go a dry sump. Shouldn't be too hard to chop and change the new ally sump to a flat bottom with a gulley and weld in two AN bungs. A lot of rooting around with pumps, lines, tanks and pulleys though. Big $$ too.

MagicMike
27-10-2009, 07:42 PM
Spewing :( Hope you haven't paid them :(

Chrispy
27-10-2009, 07:45 PM
Wasn't their fault, I wasn't specific. In fact I was very vague on that bit and just said copy the old flange layout.

Chrispy
25-11-2009, 06:40 PM
OK, due to the constant harassment from Simmo for piccies of the new sump, here they are :p

All mild steel, capacity is around the 3.5L mark. I can't go bigger while still fitting my enormous 4-1 exhaust collectors in. I have the 2Qrt accusump, so total capacity is above standard.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/v8sump2.JPG

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/v8sump3.JPG

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/v8sump1.JPG

It fits perfectly :) It's a little deeper than the one I made so I will have to extend the pickup about 10mm, will try and do that tomorrow.

The reason the sump looks WAAAAYYYY too shallow is due to the design of the block. Here is a VH45 mid rebuild (piccy stolen from Mettler)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t246/unharmonix/rebuild/Bottom%20End%20Rebuild/rebuild_bottom_002.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t246/unharmonix/rebuild/Top%20End%20Rebuild/rebuild_top_011.jpg

And here is one of a VG30 (stolen from EPR)
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/tech_epr/Picture052.jpg

You can see how the crank in the VH is recessed a lot more into the block than the VG. The Girdle on the VH is nearly below the height of the flange that the sump attaches too. That's why it looks a bit weird. I reckon it will make for a much stiffer block.

hpcoolahan
25-11-2009, 06:54 PM
looks really smick there chrispy, keep up the progress pics mate ,, love it.

Cheers
Patrick

a2zed
25-11-2009, 07:15 PM
Is that the one ausweld did? What was the cost, pm me if you want.

Chrispy
25-11-2009, 07:24 PM
Is that the one ausweld did? What was the cost, pm me if you want.

Yeah, it was Ausweld. $340, I supplied a standard sump that they cut up for the flange. They also made a (really big heavy) jig to hold it straight while welding.

Phil (the owner) wants to scale things down, there workshop is up for sale at the moment.

a2zed
25-11-2009, 07:29 PM
That is a shame, they are brilliant at what they do, as yoy can see. And the pricewas pretty good too. I used to deal with Phil alot, they repaired chassis.oil tanks etc where I used to work, and what they did with my motox engine was amazing.

Chrispy
25-11-2009, 07:48 PM
That is a shame, they are brilliant at what they do, as yoy can see. And the pricewas pretty good too. I used to deal with Phil alot, they repaired chassis.oil tanks etc where I used to work, and what they did with my motox engine was amazing.

Yeah, price was a lot better than I was expecting.

Dave, the boilermaker who did the sump showed me a main beam off a 10T Forklift that had been on the back of a truck that had been raised. It had hit a bridge at 100kph :eek: Nice big twist in it :eek: He reckoned he could fix it!

Cluey bunch of guys that's for sure. Phil will remain in business, just not doing such heavy stuff apparently.

ed300zx
26-11-2009, 05:58 AM
good stuff chris....looks like they did a great job....keep em coming

Chrispy
27-11-2009, 07:38 PM
Coz everyone like piccies here are some more. Not really showing anything, but meh.

Engine back in (for the 15th time I reckon, getting good at it now :rolleyes:)
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/engineinagain.jpg


The radiator pipe work is sorted now, just need one more hose from Supercrap and some clamps then it will be done. I think that I will have to look into a swirl pot air seperator thing at some stage though. There are some high points.


Due to switching to -10AN oil fittings from -8AN I have to lower the remote filter mount to fit them all in. Only problem is the filter would then be too low and would stick out past the radiator support and I really don't want to take it out on a speed bump. So off to Supercrap again and found a filter very similar, just a bit shorter. I had a look at the SR20 filter that Steven recommended (and looks about right compared to the original filter I removed off the first engine) but is too small IMO, so have gone with this one which is nearly twice the size. No idea what it's off but here is the number. Same thread and o-ring as the other Nissan ones (and the one off my 'rolla :p)
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/mewfilter1.jpg

The one I had was put on by chr1s who sold me the engine. It's a Z145A off a Skyline/VL.

New one next to the old Skyline one, nice and short.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/filtercomparo.jpg

And the new filter on the adapter. Heaps of room to drop it down now :)
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/newfilteron.jpg


Did some work on the exhaust. The extractors needed some love to point in the right direction, so I cut the old 3: flanges off that I had welded on and got a 3" to 2.5" reducer and a 3" 180deg to sort it. I can't finish it off until I pull the engine again. Extractors won't clear the studs with the engine in and I don't want to pull all the studs out to put in bolts as that is not a fun job at all.

But my welding has improved quite a bit :)
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/wedlinggood.jpg


I also had to move the dipstick tube that was welded in by the fabricator, I specified the wrong spot to put it. Oh well, fresh non oil impregnated steel welds easy. I've reused the standard dipstick from the VH, just needs another cut and rebend to suit the new sump.


So my list of stuff to do over the next week or so:


Make new bracket for filter relocater to fit the -10AN lines.
Move radiator about a inch to the pass side to allow for rad pipe from bottom of rad to suction of electric water pump.
Make blanking plate for the old water pump flange. I think I'll cut up the disaster sump, least something of that exercise will be put to use
Get a plug to suit the sump, the fabricator didn't tap the hole with the right pitch thread. I was even very careful to measure the thread on the old plug with a thread gauge and note it on the drawing. Oh well, least it fits.
Mod drivers side extractor with the new bits
Get the new sump bolted up for the last time and sort the dipstick


That will probably do for now...


Opps, forgot to add started on bleeding the clutch using a vacuum bleeder. Slowly getting there but I think I will have to finish it off the old fashioned way. I hope whoever designed the clutch system on the Zed got fired...

WazTTed
29-11-2009, 03:33 PM
thats a nice looking sump mate. u must be really pleased:D:D:D:D

Tektrader
29-11-2009, 07:14 PM
and a Accusump with the super fancy electronic control valve thing. The Moroso one didn't seem as good and for the extra $20 I might as well get the snazzy one :D.

Me too, I just got to find somewhere to put it now. I got the 3 quart one and the sucker is LONG. Electronic valve is the way to go :thumbup:

I think you shouild really try to use a Z9 oil filter Chrispy. If you are going to relocate use the biggest filter possible.

I did an oil filter relocation too BTW ;) Except mine is upside down right up the top so its easy to get to.

Chrispy
30-11-2009, 09:33 AM
Me too, I just got to find somewhere to put it now. I got the 3 quart one and the sucker is LONG. Electronic valve is the way to go :thumbup:

I think you shouild really try to use a Z9 oil filter Chrispy. If you are going to relocate use the biggest filter possible.

I did an oil filter relocation too BTW ;) Except mine is upside down right up the top so its easy to get to.

3qrt! I didn't even think about that one as it's too friggen huge :p no idea where you are going to stick that :p

Meh, the filter I have is larger than standard, I'll see what I can do with the lines and fittings I have. I'm sick of buying AN fittings, expensive little suckers. And is your filter upside down as in it will make an enormous mess every time you undo it? :p

Tektrader
30-11-2009, 05:27 PM
And is your filter upside down as in it will make an enormous mess every time you undo it? :p

No, cause the oil drains back into the sump when the engines off. So little or none will leak out. Just put a RAG around the base and unscrew.

Have seen it done on quite a few Skylines.

260DET
30-11-2009, 05:54 PM
Just make sure the (upside down) filter does not have an anti drain back valve then.

Tektrader
30-11-2009, 07:24 PM
Just make sure the (upside down) filter does not have an anti drain back valve then.

Correct,

Chrispy
30-11-2009, 07:40 PM
Just make sure the (upside down) filter does not have an anti drain back valve then.

Nearly all the ones I looked at when I was at Supercrap had the anti drainback valve in them. I'd rather have it full of oil than empty everytime I go to start it, accusump or not.


And while we're here a quick update!

Sump fits well with the engine in position, but the shallow section of the sump is a little too thick and touches on the steering rack on the pass side (my mounts are a little wonky that's why there is clearance on the drivers side). I've spaced the mount on the drivers side to give a little more room and I will make a new mount for the pass side when I get around to it, probably this weekend. Dipstick tube fits between the runners on the pass side exhaust well and the stick is accessible, so that's a win-win :D Just have to modify a standard VG dip stick to suit the new sump.

I've done some more chopping and welding on the extractors so I can make the rest of the exhaust soon. I'm really glad I've only gone for twin 2.5", 3" would be a real PITA to fit in.

Also made a blanking plate for the water pump hole in the block. And because it's bad form to have a update with no piccies, here are some piccies!

Cutting the ally sump up. Used a few cutting bladed because it was so thick.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate1.jpg

Pattern copied from the water pump to the ally
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate2.jpg

Big bits chopped off with the drop saw. I wish I had a bandsaw :rolleyes:
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate3.jpg

Attacked it with the grinder to get the shape, drilled some holes to see if it fit. I got one in the wrong spot thanks to a not deep enough centre punch.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate4.jpg

Give it a clean up with a flap disc
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate5.jpg

All nice and pretty on the motor :D
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/pumpplate6.jpg

Anton
01-12-2009, 10:34 AM
looking really good chris, might even be ready for a quick drive when i'm over in a few weeks :D

Tektrader
01-12-2009, 10:57 AM
You need to buy a PLASMA cutter off Ebay. $400 would have saved you hours with all the cutting you have done. Cuts through alloy and steel up to 8mm like butter.

Chrispy
01-12-2009, 11:15 AM
looking really good chris, might even be ready for a quick drive when i'm over in a few weeks :D

Fingers crossed! Doesn't need a whole lot more before a quick spin around the block is possible. When are you going to be over this side of the country

You need to buy a PLASMA cutter off Ebay. $400 would have saved you hours with all the cutting you have done. Cuts through alloy and steel up to 8mm like butter.

I wouldn't get the use out of it. And my time and 3 cutting discs is a hell of a lot cheaper than $400 :p

Tektrader
01-12-2009, 12:58 PM
I wouldn't get the use out of it. And my time and 3 cutting discs is a hell of a lot cheaper than $400 :p

Maybe, But the job is cleaner more accurate and super quick AND you get to have another toy. I even have jigs I made so I can straight cut steel/alloy without a Guilotine.

The best part is for making metal boxes/tanks etc You make the shape in cardboard so it all fits using scissors, then break the box apart and use it as a template to cut the steel. It all fits first go.

I love my Plasma cutter. :D

Chrispy
06-12-2009, 08:43 PM
Update time! Yay!

Some good news, and some PITA news. We'll start with the happy stuff first.

Spaced the drivers side mount and redid the pass side (it was wonky anyway). Now I have clearance for my new sump. It's nowhere near as much as it looks. Probably about 4mm at the centre, and tapers up to about 8mm.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/sumpclearance.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/sumpclearance2.jpg

Engine sits nice and level now :)
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/enignesittinglevel.jpg

Got some rad hoses sorted for the EWP.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/electricwp1.jpg

I got a little too enthusiastic with the grider removing the stupid little brackets off the hardpipe in the picture. Ended up holing the pipe :( Don't have a spare so I'll go down to super cheap and see what hoses I can find :p
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/electricwp2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/electricwp3.jpg


As I'm too tight to spend $200 on anodised spanners for doing up AN fittings I improvised :D
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/maskingtapeshifter.jpg

Lube the fitting up. The guy at the speedshop said to use ARP assembly lube.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/arpassemblube.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/fittinglubed.jpg

Get your nice hose
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/hoseready.jpg

Push it in with a lot of grunting and effort.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/fittingin.jpg

I actually found the -10AN fittings easier to get in than the -8AN :confused: I'm confident that they will take 300PSI like they say they will. Don't know why Speedflow say not to use them for main oil systems, but Earls, Russel etc don't have a problem with it...

I used this stuff on all the threaded joints as it looks nicer than thread tape.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/loctite577.jpg

Oil system, or complicated shitfight as I like to call it, is all piped up now.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/linesdone1.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/linesdone2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/linesdone3.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/linesdone4.jpg

I think it might run a little warm in traffic :( Biggest fan I can fit is a 14". May be able to fit 2 12" if I try real hard.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/radandfan.jpg

The stupid metal reo bar sits real low too.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/infromfrontbar.jpg


Now we start with the PITA section...

Tried to cut my exhaust gaskets.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/exhaustgasketvh.jpg

Transfered the shape from the flange, cut it out ok with some tin snips but couldn't cut the holes. I tried a ball pein hammer, drill press which wrapped the gasket around the drill, and a dremel with a tungsten carbide bit which ended in pain and blood. I've decided to ring up Nissan tomorrow...

Now for a big PITA problem.

Since I've raised the engine a tad on the pass side it's rotated and now the rocker cover touches the clutch master and is now bending it :(
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/clutchhiting.jpg

I thought I'd cut up my spare rocker cover to see if I could clearance it a touch. Really isn't enough room :( Cam caps get in the way.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/cutrockercover.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/cutrockercover2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/cutrockercover3.jpg

If I can't get a shorter master I can get a Willwood floor mount pedal with master cylinder and reservoir for about $100. Then I can pretend I have a race car :p


Next PITA thing...

I chucked on the old purple people eater bonnet that has the dirty great hole in it. The standard intake piping clashes with the main brace that runs down each side. It's the one part I REALLY don't want to cut. The standard pipe is full of ridges and what not, I will try and source a silicone one and see how that goes.

a2zed
06-12-2009, 09:03 PM
I know it's not ideal and you dont want to, but why not drop the crossmember about 10mm, shouldn't upset the chassis too much and will fix the issues you have now the engine is aligned properly.

Chrispy
06-12-2009, 09:17 PM
Thought has crossed my mind... And it would solve a hell of a lot of problems in one hit.

I'll look into it. One thing I don't want to have to mod is the steering shaft thing.

a2zed
06-12-2009, 09:24 PM
How much more room do you need, I think the steering uni will slide a good 5-10mm and still be ok. From the pics, that is about all you would need. The crossmember bolts should be good up to 10mm aswell, sway bar can stay where it is, at this stage it is probably a good option.

Chrispy
07-12-2009, 11:35 AM
Exhaust gaskets sorted. Garrmax at Brendale had them on the shelf :eek:

$36.95 for a full set of 8 :D They have 2 left now... Part number D6060 They also had head gaskets.

If found a mob in the states that sell them but don't seem to ship overseas :( Actually more expensive too...

Anton
07-12-2009, 12:34 PM
how much were the head gaskets? is that shop close to yours?

psycodelik
07-12-2009, 02:39 PM
for those fittings on the oil coolers, do you really not need to have a clamp aswell?? just lube up the fitting and push it on and itll gold 300psi?? :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Chrispy
07-12-2009, 02:42 PM
Didn't ask for a price. Are you pulling the heads off yours? Shop is about 20mins away. I'm sure they could post them to you if you want them.

Chrispy
07-12-2009, 02:44 PM
for those fittings on the oil coolers, do you really not need to have a clamp aswell?? just lube up the fitting and push it on and itll gold 300psi?? :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Apparently... Once it's up to the second barb you CANNOT pull them apart. You have to cut them off.

Some of the instructions for the pushlock fittings explicitly state that you MUST NOT use clamps. Weird, but hey, they make it.

Chrispy
07-12-2009, 05:32 PM
Quick update. Tried lowering the crossmember 10mm or so. Still fouls on the clutch master, it would need to drop another 15mm or so to clear :( Stupid engine.

I've got 3 choices at the moment.

1) Get a TT master if it is actually shorter, I'd prefer this option

2) Get a R33 Skyline GTS-T master. I know these are quite a lot shorter, but the bolts are in the wrong spot.

3) Get a Wilwood seperate pedal and master.
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/PEDALS/pedal_Photos-large/340-1469-lg.jpg

There would be a bit of mucking about to get this to work, probably slightly more than making the R33 master work...


Picked up my gaskets, look just like they said they would :p

Also got a filter adapter for the AFM. It was a adapter for a '99 WRX of all thing. It tapers the diameter down a bit, I might just try and find a pod designed for the '99 WRX instead ;)

Got some more radiator hoses, just need a joiner then that is all sorted. One off a commodore and one off a I'm not sure car, no sticker on it and nothing on the label. About $20 each and have good length.

Found a nice elbow at Autobarn that fits my throttle, a Turbosmart branded one. $120 though!! I didn't buy it surprisingly enough. Couldn't get one big enough at Supercrap either :( I must be the only person who wants silicone that big :( Off to ebay I go...

I may keep the crossmember lowered 10mm, it gives the throttle inlet quite a lot more room. I'll make a final decision once I get some silicone to play with. If it saves me from cutting that support, it was worth doing. I can't see 10mm having a huge effect on the suspension geometry, I don't plan on dropping the Zed on it's balls either.

a2zed
07-12-2009, 05:55 PM
999automotive at Beaudesert road, cooper plains,behind goodyear, they will sort out your silicone hose issues. While your over there, drop into NPC, nicks performance clutches on boundary road Archerfeild, see if they can help with the master.

And while your around the corner from the workshop, come and finish my car:D

Chrispy
07-12-2009, 06:25 PM
Kewl, I might go for a drive on Thursday...

I'll come visit, but you can finish your own zed :p

wooshka
07-12-2009, 06:33 PM
i nominate you as his "supervisor" for the day, so that way something can get done on his car :D

IB
08-12-2009, 10:10 AM
How about a AP Racing CP2623 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AP-Racing-CP2623-Brake-Master-Cylinder-875-Short-body_W0QQitemZ270497216246QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Ca rsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3efae3f6f6)? Only about 80 mm long.

Chrispy
14-12-2009, 11:57 AM
Some good news :D

Some of you might remember me moping around the Christmas party on Sat night due to some rumours that QLD transport have changed the rules and aren't going to allow engines with more cylinders than originally offered by the manufacturer to be registered.

Well I rang QLD transport this morning, spoke to a person in Registrations and she hadn't heard of it. Spoke to a guy in QLD Transport's Safety and Modification section, he hadn't heard of it. Spoke to a Approved Persons mod plater guy and he hadn't heard of it either.... I also went through all the legislation I could find on the matter, nothing in there too.

So we're in the clear so far :D

The Mod Plate guy comes highly recommended on Boost Cruising and apparently has a reputation for not screwing you around. Said about $500 to inspect at my place, approve engine, gearbox, brakes and seats and put in the mod plate :D Doesn't have to be complete either, said he'd rather see it half done so it's easy to see clearances and how everything has been done. Kewl!

The most interesting thing is the old Code of Practice is still in force and he doesn't expect the NCOP to come in until sometime next year.

Was a nice guy and liked a chat, name is Paul from Mustang Sally Conversions 0405 192 640 and is based at Caboolture, but will travel from Sunny Coast to Gold Coast.

That's a weight off my mind, now I can stop looking at turbo kits for the VG :p



Oh and more interesting news, there is such a thing as a short Z32 clutch master cylinder. Pex has one in his Burgundy Bullet, just the right length :D

Tassie_zed
23-12-2009, 06:36 PM
hi chrispy i dont know if this of any help but my clutch m/c off my TT has the outlet on the side of it, not at the bottom like yours not sure but it might be enough to get the room u need?

Chrispy
23-12-2009, 07:02 PM
Only if the length from the firewall to the end of the cylinder is less than 100mm :(

tassuperkart
27-12-2009, 07:32 AM
Have a look at an early '90's hi-Lux mc M8.
Only about 800 in length with the pipes exiting upwards. Cheap and millions of them.
Bolt spacing may be different but looking at most of the headfarks you have been battling with, I reckon youll easily get around that!!!
L8r
E

Chrispy
27-12-2009, 09:54 AM
Have a look at an early '90's hi-Lux mc M8.
Only about 800 in length with the pipes exiting upwards. Cheap and millions of them.
Bolt spacing may be different but looking at most of the headfarks you have been battling with, I reckon youll easily get around that!!!
L8r
E

Like this one?

Clicky (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-91-HILUX-SURF-4WD-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER_W0QQitemZ320467338117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZA U_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9d578385#ht_500 wt_1182)

All the hilux ones I can find are side exit, not that it's an issue.

tassuperkart
27-12-2009, 10:19 AM
Ummm...no not that one.
My M8 has a 93 2wd daycab 'lux petrol tradie ute thingo.
My own older 'lux (87) had a similar one which is quite short and upward exiting lines.
L8tr
E

Chrispy
27-12-2009, 03:19 PM
I had a look at a Toyota Surf one today, 100mm long, so no good :(

I ended up getting a R33 GTS-T one out of Melbourne. Quite short, but still has a 30mm stroke (measured in the Skyline) and is a 5/8" bore like the Zed one. The AP ones are only a 1" stroke in the short masters they make.

Anton
27-12-2009, 05:51 PM
whats the bolt spacing like? direct fit?

Chrispy
27-12-2009, 05:55 PM
Nope, miles off. I'll make an adapter.

Chrispy
06-01-2010, 03:06 PM
Got some silicone and mucked about with the intake a bit. Got the filter in the pass side SMIC position with a 3" silicone 45deg elbow up under the headlight. I have an adapter to go off the AFM and reduce down to 3" to connect to the filter. Smaller than the stock 3.5" but still enormous. 3.5" wouldn't fit through under the headlight without hacking it to pieces and I' rather avoid copping a defect for that :eek:

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/airfilterok.jpg

Also got my R33 Skyline clutch master.

Compared to standard Z32 NA. Actual stroke length is the same. Will need to extend the rod thing a bit though, easy as.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/clutchmaster1.jpg

From the front showing the difference in bolt spacing
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/clutchmaster2.jpg

Sitting against the firewall, HEAPS of room :D And I can reuse the standard hardline with some gentle persuasion.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/clutchmaster3ok.jpg

From inside the footwell, you can see the rod has to be extended a touch.
http://www.photodump.org/stored30/clutchmaster4ok.jpg

I need to get off my arse and redo the oil pickup then the whole lot can go back together. Sundays job I think.

Benny_C
06-01-2010, 03:33 PM
Gonna be registered and ready for Zedfest this year Chrispy? Would be great to hear this thing in the flesh! :D

Chrispy
06-01-2010, 03:40 PM
That's the plan Benny. I hope I can do it :eek:

Benny_C
06-01-2010, 03:49 PM
If anyone can, YOU can Chrispy! Go get 'em tiger! *insert growl noise here* :)

dieseldave
06-01-2010, 04:11 PM
Chrispy, if you remove the dust cover on the slave cylinder you will see a "C" clip. With a set of cir-clip pliers pop this out and the rod end will come out, with the piston still in place. Just swap the Gts one for the Z32 one. easy.

Chrispy
06-01-2010, 04:14 PM
Already thought of that it would be too long. I'll just get a coupling nut and a bit of threaded rod. Easy :D

Chrispy
12-01-2010, 09:25 PM
I got a bit of work done today :D

Made the new pickup using a Z32 pickup and the VH block flange. The last one was terrible. Sharp 45deg corners, pinholes through it, just yuck.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/oilpickup.jpg


I was going to braze it, but ended up having another go with the MIG. Worked out pretty good, just a lot of little tacks rather than a solid bead. Passes the 'blow really hard in the end leak test'.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/oilweld.jpg


Cut down and rewelded the standard VG dipstick to suit the new sump. I've erred on the side of caution and set it quite high, a touch higher than the stock sump, but I have less capacity.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/dipstickweld.jpg


Welded some more metal onto the drivers side extractor, also put in the O2 bung and the WBO2 bung.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/extractorsbung.jpg


All pretty and painted :D

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/extractorspainted.jpg


Extractors are now bolted to the engine with the new gaskets. Pickup is put on, and sump is gooed on too.

A sump plug and we'll be ready to have a second start :D:D